At sea January 28
When exactly did it become the Southern Ocean? Just like I learned there are 7 continents and 50 states, I learned there were 4 oceans – Atlantic, Pacific, Indian, and Arctic. That’s just how things were. The oceans around Antarctica were simply the Southern Atlantic, or the Southern Pacific, and even the Southern Indian etc. But the Southern Ocean? Who gets to decide that? Who’s in charge? The first time I heard the term was watching Whale Wars on TV. I always thought it was some random term that the show’s producers just made up, but maybe not.
Whatever you call it, we spent the day sailing through it via the Drake Passage. The Drake Passage – the legendary route used to pass between the South Atlantic and the South Pacific. Or, should that be the Northern Southern Ocean? Just the name “Drake Passage”, as in Sir Francis Drake, invokes visions of intrepid explorers braving the elements and the unknown. Before the Panama Canal, this was the only way through. Sailing ships traveling from east to west had to face the prevailing westerly winds, usually howling at gale force. The large memorial at Cape Horn, visible for miles, is a testament to the loss of life inflicted by the Drake Passage on those daring or foolish enough to undertake the voyage.
On the day we sailed south through the Drake, it was kind to us. Calm and deep blue seas greeted us and eased us into our roles as pampered explorers. Terns, petrels and albatross visited us along the way. It was a day to get accustomed to our surroundings, to learn a bit about what was to come and to begin the daily ritual of eating frequently.
This is by no means a luxury cruise. Real science goes on here. Bird, whale and ecosystem researchers tag along with us to do their work. The ship is very comfortable, but not ornate. We will be climbing in and out of zodiacs, slipping and sliding through snow, ice, mud and worse. We will wear multiple layers of protection to keep out the biting winds and spray. But one thing we share with the luxury cruises is freedom from hunger.
Crossing the Drake was a day for trying on our new fancy parkas, our waterproof pants and boots. It was the day for our disinfecting party! Anything that would be going ashore in Antarctica needed inspection and cleaning. Tripods, walking sticks and boots needed cleaned. Backpacks were vacuumed and outer clothing. Antarctica is a very pristine environment that doesn’t take kindly to outsiders contaminating the delicate balance. True, most everything that we might introduce wouldn’t last a second in the Antarctic winter, but you never know what kind of hitchhiking spores or invasive species might be tagging along with us.
Finally, it was a day to get acquainted with the expedition staff. One thing we love about these trips is that they are staffed by extraordinary and engaging people. They have decades of experiences. They are experts in birds, whales, seals, ice, photography and more. They are thoroughly versed in the history of the land and the explorers. Some have been marooned on desert islands. Some live in Patagonia. Some have worked with famous documentary film makers like David Attenborough. Some have been invited to give TED talks. Some have over-wintered in Antarctica in converted refrigerator containers. Some have lived among the reindeer herders of northern Scandinavia. Some grew up shooing bears out of their gardens in the outback of Alaska. Some are renown photographers. Some have discovered new species. Most are Ph.D.’s in their fields. And all are enthusiastic and excited to share their experiences, both in presentations and in casual conversations. This is a large part of why we take these trips. The discovery of where we are going is one thing, but the insights these people provide is invaluable.