Buenos Aires, January 25 and 26
I am officially tired of Recoleta Cemetery.
For a place that I was never sure I would go, I’ve now been to Buenos Aires three times, and twice in the last 22 months. Once was for a visit, and the two most recent times were as a jumping off point for expedition travel.
In a metropolitan area of 13 million people, there’s a lot going on. Parks, historic sites, presidential palaces, partially crumbling architecture, restaurants and more all compete for your attention. And, there’s La Cementario de la Recoleta.
Outbreaks of disease and the influx of immigrants in city sections like San Telmo were enough to persuade the wealthy of Buenos Aires to move north from the central area. Recoleta became the new settling place and the “in” place to be seen.
Founded in the early 1800’s as a rural public cemetery, Recoleta Cemetery was soon overwhelmed by the moneyed class. Those who competed in life to have the biggest and the best carried that over in death. Simple grave markers gave way to statues, mausoleums and mini-temples to the departed. Presidents of the Republic, generals, business magnates, Nobel Prize winners and the families of former first ladies (yeah, her), all wanted monuments to their importance, each with its own unique design. These can vary from single dwellings to some designs that can accommodate dozens of coffins. This arms race resulted in one of the most fascinating cemeteries in the world.
Once bought, a plot is owned forever. Upkeep is the responsibility of the owners. So, some plots have been neglected and fallen into significant disrepair. Broken glass, disintegrating facades and Disney-like haunted mansion motifs are frequent. But, once bought, a plot is owned forever, so the cemetery makes no effort to evict or beautify the neglected.
While there is no new space available in the cemetery, existing plots can be bought and sold like used real estate. A new buyer might buy a plot, renovate the existing structure or tear it down and sometimes build something completely new. (I don’t know what they do with the former occupants.). The cemetery today is a warren of narrow, imposing stone lanes through massive monuments. Some are soaring edifices, some are neglected hovels, but all are fascinating.
This is why we visited Recoleta Cemetery on our first visit. This is also why we went on our second visit, nearly four years later. On this third trip, Alex and Christine were first-time visitors, so it had to be on our must-see list. We were in Buenos Aires for two days, so we made sure that we went on the first day. We dutifully plodded through the rows of dead folk. We pointed out the memorials we particularly liked and remembered. We found the final resting place of a former first lady. And we decided that three times was enough.
On our second day, the tour organizers offered a free bus tour of the city. It was a great way to see other areas that are less accessible by foot or easy public transportation. It made sense that we take advantage of the tour, and we happily went. However, the last stop on the tour was, yes, Recoleta Cemetery! While we thought about jumping off the tour and walking to the hotel, at least this time it was with a guide who told us stories of the history and occupants we didn’t know.
So, we did it again. Our fourth visit to Recoleta Cemetery in three trips to Buenos Aires. If we come again, I’m sure we will visit the historical sites, we will drink mate, we will walk until our backs and legs are too sore to take another step, and we will eat more beef than we normally do in a year. I’m just not sure that we will visit the Recoleta Cemetery.
